Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
